#3

Washing the Soul in Kamui Mintara Waka Kawaji
Historical Novelist

The Sounkyo Gorge in November is a hidden gem.
Once the autumn foliage season ends, the number of visitors drops significantly. The ski season and the Ice Fall Festival are still far off. As the snow begins to fall and coats the trees in white, the gorge becomes enveloped in an ethereal atmosphere.

It's exactly the kind of scene that helps you understand why the Ainu people described this land as Kamui Mintara, the “Playground of the Gods.”

On the day I stayed at Hotel Taisetsu at the beginning of November, snow was forecasted. The area around Mount Taisetsu is one of the first regions in Hokkaido (and Japan) to see snow.
I decided to spend the day in the snow, holed up in the hotel, enjoying the hot springs at my leisure.

I had been feeling a bit worn out, caught up in the mundane affairs of everyday life.
A sudden notice of a close acquaintance's passing made me realize I was feeling down.
Unimportant things kept nagging at my mind, and I found myself overthinking them. It was exhausting.
…At times like these, I long to clear away the "sediment" that accumulates in my heart.
I remember the phrase "washing the soul."

It's not a phrase people use much these days.
According to the dictionary, it means "to be freed from daily life and spend time leisurely." However, in the Edo period, it was often used in the context of visiting places like Yoshiwara, a famous red-light district in Edo (Tokyo today).
In the play Onatsuraezome Choju Komon by Kyoden Santo, which talks about the secrets of longevity, the term "washing the soul" is used.
The passage says,
"Your soul must be washed from time to time, or it will become like a dirty rag. Just as you would polish coins in a basin, you must wash your soul."
The illustration shows a man diligently washing the word "soul" in a basin with small coins, much like scrubbing underwear (which metaphorically refers to spending a lot of money to enjoy the company of a beautiful woman).

Times have changed, but sometimes I think it would be nice to "wash my soul" like this...

So, this time, I chose a plan called "Yukihana," which includes a room with a private bath.
...There's an indoor bath!

The hot spring flows continuously 24 hours a day.
When I got to the room, I immediately jumped in... Ah, this is such happiness!

Furthermore, Hotel Taisetsu has three large public baths.
Before sunset, let's head to the outdoor bath "Tenga no Yu," where you can enjoy breathtaking views.
After washing my body, I entered the outdoor bath, and in front of me was the magnificent view of the gorge.
The luxury of bathing in the midst of nature.

This alone feels like it could extend my life!

By the way, one of my personal goals for this stay is to indulge in "Sa-do" (the way of the sauna). I've tried sauna-water bath-outdoor air bath at a local facility before, but I wanted to try a proper sauna experience amidst this great natural setting.
First, you wash your body before entering the sauna... then slowly soak in the hot spring. I've heard this referred to as "pre-boiling" among sauna enthusiasts.
Hotel Taisetsu's sauna is located on the 7th floor of the West Wing in Taisetsu no Yu.
It has large glass windows, so you can enjoy the view even while in the sauna.

Moreover, you can do a self "löyly" (Finnish sauna tradition). You use a scoop to pour water from a wooden bucket onto the sauna stones… and the humidity rises with a sizzling sound. There's also rosemary-scented aroma water, filling the sauna with a herbal fragrance… so soothing.
There's a water dispenser right outside the sauna, so I slowly sipped cold water, letting my body warm it up with my internal temperature. This supposedly helps sweat more. When I drink water this way, it keeps my head from overheating.
I didn't set a timer, but once I felt the sweat flowing, I quickly rinsed it off with a shower and then cooled off in the cold plunge. Once my body cooled enough, I didn't push myself and left the water when I felt ready, drying myself thoroughly with a bath towel. (Important!)
Then, I went outside to the open-air bath, sat on a chair, and refreshed myself with the outdoor air.
Since my body had already cooled in the cold plunge, the outside air didn't feel too cold. Instead, with my core warmed, the breeze felt incredibly pleasant.

I just zoned out... (In a state of nothingness.)
...Maybe this is similar to meditation?
Usually, I finish after one round, but I learned that the basic sauna ritual involves repeating the process three times. When I tried it, the second round brought out even more sweat. By the third round, my sweat felt smoother. Ah, so this is what they mean by "good sweat"?

It's said that the bad things in your body are expelled along with sweat and tears, and after sweating in the sauna, I felt genuinely refreshed.
At the same time, I realized you can't sweat without drinking water. Drink water... sweat... and this repetitive cycle helps circulate water through the body.
After clearing out all the "unpleasant things" along with the sweat, I went for the outdoor air again… and as I was gently blown by the wind from Sounkyo, I felt like something refreshing from the "playground of the Gods" was entering my body.
…It's like you can't receive anything new until you let go of what's unnecessary.

After finishing the sauna before dinner, I felt incredibly refreshed! My head was so clear. What happened to me?! Saunas are amazing, but maybe it's the power of nature that's so incredible.
Dinner featured seasonal ingredients from Hokkaido, like grilled shabu-shabu with Shiraoi beef.
For the drink... I tried the rare corn beer, a craft beer with a hint of corn aroma and sweetness. It was something I'd probably only taste here.

Before bed, I took another bath in the room. A quick soak, then deep sleep.

When I woke up in the morning, it was already 6 a.m.! I nearly overslept!
I made coffee, and enjoyed the morning hot spring. While sipping coffee in the room's bath, I felt a guilty pleasure. But the atmosphere of the bath made it feel okay.
Then, off to the sauna again.
I tried "morning sauna" for the first time.
Honestly, I always thought that starting the day with a sauna might make me feel sluggish for the rest of the day, so I had never tried it before.
But when I tried it, I felt incredibly energized. Three sets again.
The result? Far from feeling sluggish. I felt sharp, and I was amazed at the change in my body.
I tend to wake up puffy in the mornings, but after three rounds in the sauna, the puffiness was gone. My skin also felt smooth and hydrated.
For breakfast, I chose Japanese-style. Everything was delicious, but the homemade salted cod and large pickled plum were especially exceptional. It's clear that the key to good cooking is treating the ingredients with care.

..Leisurely.
After breakfast, I went to the Chinita no Yu on the first floor. This is a spacious public bath with high ceilings and beautiful stained glass. The moment I entered, I could smell the hot spring water. The water here seemed to be the hottest and the richest. Nearby, there was a warm, soothing bath where you could recline. Alternating between hot and warm waters was a nice touch.
But in the morning, a hot bath is just perfect. It wakes you up!

...By then, it was already 11 a.m., and time to check out.
As souvenirs, I purchased some Japanese sake—a limited-edition collaboration between Kamikawa Taisetsu Sake Brewery and Hotel Taisetsu—and some sweet sake.

Thinking back... I hadn't done anything since yesterday.
I'd just been soaking in the hot springs and sauna, eating delicious food.
I'd been zoning out, breathing in the fresh air.
But when I got home and started unpacking, I realized something.

...All the trivial things? I had completely forgotten about them.

Not only did my body and mind feel refreshed, but the insignificant things became truly insignificant, and sad events had turned into things of the past.
It felt like something had been released.
At the same time... as I thought about the peaceful breeze, I realized something:

When something is let go of, something new begins.

This is something that's easy to say, but hard to do at home. Only by immersing yourself in nature can you truly experience this.
I did nothing but zone out... but a hotel that lets you enjoy such a state of relaxation is rare.

This is "a journey to let your heart play."

The next morning, when I woke up, I was once again astounded at how both my body and mind felt so clear.
Usually, after a hot spring bath, the next day you tend to feel pleasantly sluggish.
But this time, it felt amazing.
Instead of being healed by the hot spring, I felt like I had charged my energy.
"I'll come back to Hotel Taisetsu to enjoy the 'Playground of the Gods'... and wash my soul once more." ...I thought to myself.